Rolled Hem

  • 3 Tips for a BEAUTIFUL rolled hem

    Achieving a flawless rolled hem on stretch fabrics can be a bit of a challenge. Unlike woven fabrics, stretch fabrics, also known as knit fabrics, have their unique quirks—stretchiness, curling edges, you name it. But don’t let these challenges deter you! A well-done rolled hem can transform your stretch fabric projects, giving them such a gorgeous and pro looking finish. Here are three pro tips to guide you:

    1. Mind Your Thread Tension

    Tension settings on your serger play a crucial role in how your rolled hem turns out. Too loose, and the fabric won’t roll properly; too tight, and you’ll get puckering. A well-balanced tension is key. Adjust your tension dials gradually, and always test on a scrap piece first. Your machine’s manual might offer some guidance, but remember, every stretch fabric is different. You’ll often need to trust your instincts.

    2. Keep Your Cutting Blade Engaged

    The cutting blade on your serger helps trim off the excess fabric as you sew, making sure that the hem rolls neatly. Some people disengage it, thinking they’ll achieve more control, but for most stretch fabrics, keeping it engaged ensures that the fabric is guided correctly and cut evenly. Again, practice on a scrap piece to make sure you’ve got the blade position just right.

    3. Use a Wooly Nylon or Maxi Lock Stretch thread

    For a rolled hem that looks smooth and feels soft, woolly nylon or Maxi Lock Stretch thread can be a game-changer. This type of thread has a bit of stretch and a fluffy texture, which fills in the gaps in the rolled hem, giving it a fuller, more professional appearance. The stretch in woolly nylon and Maxi Lock Stretch also accommodates the natural give in stretch fabrics, reducing the likelihood of popped stitches. Just thread it into your loopers (I use it in my upper) and you’ll see the difference it makes.

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