Jacket

  • Pattern Review of the Smitten Jacket

    Pattern: Smitten Jacket
    Designer: Pattern Emporium
    Fabrics: Cotton Drill from Spotlight Stores
    Skill level: Experienced Beginner
    Size made: 18 FBA
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: Love this one to chuck over a dress or top to dress it up or keep you warm on cooler nights.
    Cons: None

    The Wrap Up

    When I saw Kate from Pattern Emporium ask for testers for this jacket, I put my hand up straight away, it’s SO cute! I had my eye on the ultra crop version and I was not disappointed with my final version.

    One of the things I liked about it is that Kate wasn’t marketing it as a straight Denim jacket, rather one that could be used with softer fabrics such as Linen, Linen Blends and Rayons, which just makes it so much more versatile.

    I also really love the options on this one. Having the front and back yoke as well as the paneled front gives it so many ways to customise for a prefect style fit just for you. I am a huge fan of the top stitching element (though I didn’t top stitch this one), as it gives you the opportunity to add a contrasting colour that can really make it pop.

    Pattern Emporium really do have great written instructions for their patterns making it so much easier for beginners especially to feel like they are being supported as they attempt new patterns. It has a size range of 4-30, and mashes with quite a few other Pattern Emporium patterns.

    I thoroughly enjoyed making this one and have plans for a denim and Corduroy version for winter. I highly recommend giving this one a go!

    Watch my Review with construction tips

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  • Updated Pattern Review of the Dutchie Jacket

    Pattern: Kids Dutchie Jacket
    Designer: Ellie & Mac
    Fabrics: Black French Terry from Rubyjam Fabrics and Buffalo Plaid Flannel from Spotlight
    Skill level: Intermediate
    Measurements: Chest: 21″; Waist 20.5″; Hips 21″
    Size made: 3
    Adjustments: Hacked their instructions on the welt pocket.
    Pros:Love this jacket cause you can mix woven in the bodice with knit for the sleeves.
    Cons: I found the instructions a little confusing. Definitely read each step before progressing. 

    The Wrap Up

    I’ve actually made this jacket for Jemma before (which you can read here) and while I loved it, I found the instructions a little heavy to follow. To be honest, some of it is that because I am such a competent sewist I tend to assume what the next step will be and go ahead with what I logically think will work, but sometimes patterns need to be done in a certain way for all the elements to work, so it doesn’t always work in my favour to jump the gun!

    As I mentioned in my last review, I wasn’t a huge fan of the visible stitching lines on the front welt pocket, so this time I was determined to alter them out. I cut out all the pieces and ended up having a think about it overnight and came up with a pretty good solution I think.

    I filmed it all to show how I did, you can see it all in the YouTube video below. 

    It is definitely a great pattern all in all, I just recommend you take your time while sewing it and you will get great results.

    How to eliminate the visible stitching lines on the welt pocket, plus short review.

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  • Pattern Review of the Lumina Zip Up Hoodie

    Pattern: Lumina Zip Up Hoodie
    Designer: Greenstyle Patterns
    Fabrics: French Terry
    Measurements: Bust: 44″; Waist 34″; Hips 41″
    Size made: G, graded to an I at bust
    Adjustments: Only the grading at the bust
    Pros: This is gorgeous pattern for highlighting different fabrics.
    Cons: With the princess type seams over the bust it is a bit difficult to grade, but not impossible.

    Links:

    The Wrap Up:

    When I got this strike fabric assigned to me from Sew Unique, I really wanted to use it for myself, but I had other fabric that I also wanted to use for a jumper, the floral cheetahs and I didn’t really need 2 new jumpers so I asked my neighbour if she would like a new hoodie jacket for winter. She is still feeding her daughter so I wanted to make it feeding friendly and I knew this would be a great pattern to use the accent fabric and also a solid.

    I bought Greenstyle Lumina a while ago and like with a lot of my patterns, I get them and then forget to make them for a while. Tell me I’m not alone haha. Now that I’ve made it up now though, I don’t know why it took me so long, I love it!!!

    I did find this a challenge with the grading as my neighbour has quite a prominent bust but slimmer waist and hips. She did comment to me that she often doesn’t buy zip up hoodies as she needs to buy them big to accommodate her bust but then it looks baggy around the hips. So I was pretty happy to be able to custom make one just for her measurements. After all, thats a big reason we sew isn’t it?! To make clothes fit our bodies! However, as I mentioned, the grading was difficult to get right with the way the pattern pieces come together with the pocket on the front, but I think I did a pretty good job! I won’t lie though, when I make my version where I don’t have to grade I am looking forward to the straight size haha.

    I also made my own separating zipper for this one and I don’t think I could have picked a more perfect zipper. The colouring on it suited the Winter Bokeh fabric so beautifully. I have a video on youtube detailing how to make a separating zipper from continuous zipper tape which I’ve linked above and can also been seen >>here<<. It is a bit tricky to get right though, so I often buy pre made separating zippers to save having to muck around with making one.

    So, I think this the first of a few Lumina hoodies. Can’t wait to do the next one.

    Gallery:

  • Pattern Review of the Kids Billie Bomber

    Pattern: Kids Billie Bomber
    Designer: Petite Stitchery Co
    Fabrics: Sew Unique Fabrics French Terry
    Measurements: Chest: 21″; Waist 20.5″; Hips 21″
    Size made: 2T
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: Is fully lined and has the option of either snap enclosure or Zip
    Cons: Being fully lined it is quite labour intensive, but so worth it.

    Links:

    The Wrap Up:

    I have had this jacket in my head for AGES! So when I had this strike fabric to sew, it was the perfect opportunity to help it come to life. I chose the Billie Bomber as I liked the size range it came in with the option of the baby bomber as well as the kids version.

    I love the ‘varsity’ type look and I thought it would be just the cutest on Ted, so I looked for a varsity font online (which I’ve linked above), measured the area I wanted it to go and then typed out the letter and projected it onto my panel piece to see if it was a good size. From there I traced it onto a piece of paper so I could use it as a template to cut out my white cuddle fleece and main fabric letter. Final stage was sewing each layer onto the panel in a normal straight stitch and voilá! Perfect!!

    Projecting the letter on my panel

    After I had done that I followed the rest of the instructions as per normal to make up the jacket. This was my first time doing a proper lined bomber style jacket and while it wasn’t overly hard, it was time consuming and I had to concentrate a lot on what I was doing. Especially as this is designed to be a fully reversible jacket, so there are extra steps to ensure all seams are enclosed and neat. I am pleased with the final result and glad to have added to my skill set. Plus I have a super spunky almost 2yo ready to rock this winter. Stop growing so fast baby boy!

    Gallery:

  • Pattern Review of the Kids Dutchie Jacket

    Pattern: Kids Dutchie Jacket
    Designer: Ellie & Mac
    Fabrics: Denim – Spotlight. Accent ballerina French Terry – Sew Unique Fabrics
    Measurements: Chest: 22″
    Size made: 7
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: This is a super cute jacket that I liked could be made with either snaps or a zip. I also liked that you can use a woven for the main body and mix it up with knit for the sleeves.
    Cons: I had A LOT of trouble with the lining pieces. This was a combo of me not reading the pieces correctly and I felt the instructions weren’t super clear that there should be an additional lining piece for the welt pocket version.

    Links:

    The Wrap Up:

    I have wanted to make Jemma a denim jacket for quite some time, so when I saw that the kids dutchie jacket was on sale with Ellie & Mac, I thought it was a great opportunity to give it a go.

    One of the things I really liked about the dutchie jacket was the ability to mix and match woven fabrics with knits, which gave me the chance to use some of my heavier weight wovens like denim and drill. I had also received a half metre piece of the Ballerinas on denim in French Terry in a Sew Unique Fab bag, so it really was a match made in heaven!

    There are a few pocket options on this pattern, I opted to do the welt inseam pockets and the breast patch pockets which I felt looked super stylish.

    Now I had A LOT of troubles with my welt pockets. Well, not the welt pockets per say, they came up really well, but I felt the instructions weren’t super clear that there is an ADDITIONAL liner piece when doing the welt pocket version. I ended up using my outer liner piece instead of the welt pocket liner piece, which caused me a world of pain later haha.

    I ended up having to do some heavy modifications to make the liner in the jacket work, which I felt if you were a beginner and made the same mistake as me, you may have wanted to give up. So my big tip is to make sure if you make the welt pocket version that you cut BOTH lining pieces!

    Other than my mistake with the liner, this jacket came together pretty well and I am super pleased with the final result. I made it in a size 7 which is 1 to 2 sizes bigger than Jemma normally wears so I can get some extra milage out of it.

    The Dutchie jacket is on sale this week, 11-18th April, for only $2USD, so its worth grabbing to have in your pattern stash. Especially with its generous sizing up to big kid 18.