Month: August 2023

Sewing Like a Pro: Mastering Twin/Double Needle Techniques
Setting Up Your Machine for Twin Needling Success

In this article, we’ll be sharing three practical tips that can make a real difference in your twin needling endeavors. Whether you’re a seasoned pro curious about this technique or a beginner looking to learn something new, these tips will help you achieve clean, professional-looking results. So, grab your needles and let’s dive into the world of twin needling!

Tip 1: Use the correct twin/double needle type

Making sure you are using the right twin/double needle can make a big difference. I only use Schmetz Needles and they have a Universal and a Stretch type. Both come in various widths but I am a fan of the 4 in stretch for hemming and necklines. If you find you are getting skipped stitches, check that you are using correct type for the fabric you are sewing and that its a fresh needle.

Tip 2: Keep your top threads separate

It’s always a good idea to have one of your top threads behind the needle bar and one in front. This helps keep them separate and getting tangled and causing problems.
I usually put my left thread in front and my right needle behind but it is totally personal preference!

Tip 3: Have a play with the tension and stitch length

One of the biggest complaints people have is that their stitches are ‘tunneling’.
Tunneling is when their is a ‘bump’ between the two lines of stitches. It usually happens when your tension isn’t right.
My biggest piece of advice is to have a play with the settings for your machine. I generally find on my machine a stitch length of 3-3.5 and a tension of around 4-5 is what works best.

When your tension is right, your underside should look like a zig zag stitch like the picture on the right. If your tension is wrong, you bobbin thread may be too tight or look straighter.

BONUS TIP

My bonus tip is….
A blast with your steam iron fixes a manner of all sins! haha. Obviously check that your fabric is ok with the iron first, but honestly, giving your seams a good press and steam after can help smooth any tunnels and give it a nice clean finish.

Want more help with your twin needling?

I actually filmed a whole master class on twin needling in my membership The Sewing Corner. To watch that and many other skill builder tips and tricks, join my community below.

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Sinclair Birthday BOGO fun!
Go Shopping with Buy One Get One Free

Sinclair is having a birthday, and to celebrate they are having a Buy One Get One Free sale!
Sinclair have some fantastic patterns. See my recommendations below on some of my favourites.

Gaia Knit Tank Top

I love how versatile this top is. You can wear it as a sports style top or casual top with jeans. The keyhole at the back is such a gorgeous feature.
The knit binding on the can be a bit tricky if you’ve not done it before, but take it slow and you can get beautiful results.

Shop Knit Gaia Tank Here

Ivy Colour block Top

I’m a big fan of colour blocking, and this top makes it easy to do. This is also perfect to use with panels. You can show them off and still use other colours to compliment your designs.

Shop Ivy Colour Block Top Here

Betty Faux Wrap

I love wrap dresses, and the faux style of this makes it easier to wear. The pleats at the front are a very interesting feature.

Shop Betty Faux Wrap Here

Calypso Colour Block

This is SUCH a fun sweater. I love the colour block pieces and the way it is constructed. I definitely think it’s worth the time to top stitch all the pieces, it gives it a beautiful finished look.

Shop Calypso Colour Block Here

Juno Jacket

One of my fave features on this jacket is the gorgeous princess seams on the front giving you a flattering fit and the shaping on the back enhancing that as well. I made this 2 seasons ago and I still wear it quite often. I think it might be time to make another actually!

Shop Juno Jacket Here

Adele Boatneck Top

This was not a style I would normally make for myself, but I am actually really glad I did! It came out great and I enjoyed trying something a little bit different. I love the boatneck details and I actually really loved the tie sleeves.

Shop Adele Boatneck Top Here

Some of my other recommendations are the Skylar, any of the kids clothes, Demi Raglan, Marley Dolman Top, Violet Top. The list goes on!
Just make sure you shop before the sale ends 11:59pm August 25th PST.
Pattern Review of the Avonlea Knit Party Dress
Pattern: Avonlea Knit Party Dress
Designer: Peek A Boo Patterns
Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from The Telarie & Netting from Spotlight
Skill level: Adventurous Beginner
Size made: 2
Adjustments: None
Pros: I love how sweet this one looks and the tulle overlay really makes it.
Cons: The collar takes some time to get right and I recommend basting it before you sew it in properly.

Where sweetness meets rainbow dreams

I’m not sure there is anything sweeter than a peter pan collar on a little one, so I LOVED being able to use this pattern for a friends little girl.
This is a great staple to have in your pattern library and lends itself well to quite a quick sew. Littlies also love twirling, and the half circle skirt on this one is perfect for that. When I gave Miss I this dress she immediately wanted to put it on and start to twirl in it. Made my heart sing.
I was a little worried about how the collar would sit being that it has the neck band over the top, but the only way to avoid that would be to line the bodice, either fully lined or partial, and to be honest, I couldn’t be bothered. I needed have worried as I think it turned out really well with the neck band anyway. I wouldn’t hesitate to do another one that way.
My other thing I loved about this pattern was the cute puff sleeves. They looked just so adorable!
To add the tulle overlay I simply cut the skirt piece out of the tulle and then treated it as one piece while I was attaching it. I did actually initially try a gathered skirt over the top of the half circle but it didn’t work. I didn’t have enough volume in the gathered skirt to give the circle skirt underneath the correct movement.
All in all I highly recommend this one!

Shop the Avonlea Party Dress Pattern

Shop The Telarie Fabrics

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Sensational Sleeves: Five Key Sleeve Styles and What They Mean
Have you ever seen a type of sleeve mentioned and not known what it meant? Or looked like? In this article we delve into 5 different common sleeve styles and what they mean. You no longer have to wonder the difference between Raglan, Dolman or Set in as you will be able to instantly picture the style they are talking about.
Now let’s take a look!

Sleeveless:

Sleeveless designs speak to minimalism and uninhibited movement. By foregoing sleeves altogether, they create open armholes that showcase shoulders and grant unmatched ease of motion. This style has historical roots in warm climates and societies that prioritized practicality. From the simplest tank tops to the most intricate evening gowns, sleeveless styles continue to provide a blank canvas for creative experimentation in neckline design, accessories, and layering.
My Favourite Sleeveless Patterns:

Love Notions Summer Basics

Gaia Knit Tank Top

Set-In Sleeves

Set-in sleeves are probably one of the most common types of sleeves and seen in many ready to wear garments. In knit garments such as t-shirts and polos, they are fairly easily sewn in, however in some woven garments you need to ‘ease’ them into the arm hole. Their history dates back to the Victorian era, where they symbolized sophistication and grace. In today’s context, there are many variations of the set in sleeve such as capped, puff, petal & bishop. They are a stylish and great addition to many garments.
My Favourite Set in Sleeve Patterns:

Peek A Boo Essential Tee

Diana Knit Dress & Top

Aria Button Down Shirt

Dolman Sleeves

Dolman sleeves introduce a drapey and relaxed silhouette. Seamlessly integrating with the garment body, they often extend to the waist or hip, offering comfort and a touch of artistic flair. With origins in the Ottoman Empire and popularized in the 19th century, dolman sleeves continue to embody a fusion of comfort and exotic charm. They shine in casual ensembles, giving a bohemian vibe to tops, tunics, and dresses while providing ample room for fabric experimentation.
My Favourite Dolman Sleeve Patterns:

PSCO Frankie Dolman

Peek A Boo Domino Dolman

Raglan Sleeves

Raglan sleeves combine sportiness and style. Defined by a diagonal seam from neckline to underarm, they offer a generous shoulder fit and great arm motion. With historical origins tied to Lord Raglan’s military coat, this style gained prominence for its functional design and comfort, making it a go-to for sports attire. In modern times, raglan sleeves find their place in casual fashion, athletic wear, and outerwear, providing a relaxed fit suitable for various activities.
My Favourite Raglan Sleeve Patterns:

Sinclair Demi Raglan

5oo4 Renee Top and Dress

Flutter Sleeves

Flutter sleeves bring a touch of whimsy and grace to any garment. Characterized by their loose, flouncy design, they create an enchanting fluttering effect around the arms. Historically, they evoke femininity and romanticism, gaining popularity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In contemporary fashion, flutter sleeves infuse dresses, blouses, and children’s wear with playful elegance, evoking a carefree aura and allowing for effortless movement. I am a big fan of the flutter sleeve.
My Favourite Flutter Sleeve Patterns:

Love Notions Willow Wrap

Waves & Wild Genoveva Top

Hopefully this gives you a better idea as to which sleeve means what next time you see a sleeve term you are unfamiliar with.
Be bold and adventurous and try some new styles to see if they work for you. Many knit patterns come with a few different sleeve variations so I encourage you to give them a try. Sleeves are a great way to change the look of a garment without changing the pattern if you know the pattern fits you well.
Have a little fun with some sensational sleeves!
Pattern Review of the Happy Feet PJ set
Pattern: Happy Feet Pjs
Designer: Peek A Boo Patterns
Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Frankie Bear Fabrics
Skill level: Beginner
Size made: 0 (6-12 months)
Adjustments: None
Pros: If you love footed pjs are frequently changing nappies, being separates is a big plus.
Cons: It doesn’t come in adult size! haha.

Step into Coziness

When it comes to achieving the perfect blend of comfort and style in sleepwear, the Happy Feet PJ’s pattern proves to be a true gem.
I was and still am a HUGE fan of the Classic Zip PJ’s (read my review here), but when my son started toilet training, he needed to be able to get his PJ’s off himself. The zips on the Classic Zipper Pj’s proved to be a bit of an issue for him while still learning, but he loves the footed part of the Classic Zipper. When I started making the Happy Feet PJs however, it was the perfect mix of both!
Especially great if your little ones often lose socks while sleeping, the built in feet keep them super cosy. I also love the raglan style sleeves. I feel it gives a better opportunity to mix and match fabrics and colours, creating the perfect balance.
I can see many more Happy Feet Pj’s in our future!

Shop the Pattern Here

Shop Fabrics Here

What next?

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Learn to sew with confidence and let me guide you to more sewing success.

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Knit Basics – A Great Staple for your stash!
If you’re looking for some staple fabrics to keep in your stash, the knit basics range from Wattle Hill is a great place to start.
Get Ready to Feel the Love with Every Stitch!
So, imagine this: a fabric that’s as soft as a cloud, stretches like your morning yoga routine, and feels like a warm hug. The European Knit Basics range is a dreamy collection that’s practically begging to be transformed into your next favorite outfit. That’s the magic of the Knit Basics range.
European Knit Basics from Wattle Hill Fabrics are the ultimate sewist’s delight. These premium knit fabrics are sourced straight from Europe. Think of a fabric that’s not only soft against your skin but also stretches like a dream.
Pj’s and clothes that look a million bucks!
I used the Teal/Petrol 1mm stripes to make my son some super comfy Pj’s and a basic pink to make my daughter a pair as well. Both loved them and couldn’t wait to wear them to bed. I finished off the waistbands with a super soft waistband elastic from Wattle Hill as well.
You don’t have to just stick to PJ’s though, here are some other pattern ideas that every wardrobe needs.
~ Tshirts
~ Joggers
~ Tank Tops
~ Shorts
~ Baby’s wear
The possibilities are endless!
Make sure you check the range today. Don’t forget to see their range of matching ribbing as well. Perfect for neckbands, waistbands and cuffs.
Pattern Review of the Demi Raglan Tee
Pattern: Demi Raglan
Designer: Sinclair Patterns
Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Rubyjam
Skill level: Beginner
Size made: 18/20
Adjustments: Only the grading
Pros: Super easy for a beginner and great fitting.
Cons: Making sure you mark your front and back notches is important.

The Wrap Up

When you are self conscious about your mum tum (like I am), it can sometimes be hard to find a tshirt pattern that doesn’t cling to all the wrong places. The Demi Raglan is one of my fave raglan style tees cause it doesn’t make me feel uncomfortable and is such a nice fit!
Something I love about raglan sleeves is I think you have better colour blocking options. Having the sleeves form part of the neckline means you have a great opportunity to showcase fabric and patterns on the sleeves. This means options like a bold print paired with a solid work really well as they balance each other out and can look very cohesive.
I wanted to use the feathers in this one as I didn’t have a huge amount left and I knew that pairing it with the black would look really effective. I also toyed with the idea of a mustard or teal, but ultimately I thought the black worked the best. The only thing I was a little worried about what that it then left the middle panel quite plain.
I decided to use my new cutter, the Juliet cutter from Siser with some Siser Heat Transfer Vinyl in rainbow glitter to brighten up the front panel. I wanted to keep in the feather theme so I bought a feather file off Etsy that had a few options and then incorporated it into a horizontal group across the chest. It worked SO WELL!!
I am super happy with how this one turned out and will definitely be making more Demi Raglans as it’s pretty much my goto raglan pattern!
If you would like to learn how to make this pattern and have me hold your hand as you explore sewing with knit fabric, join me in The Sewing Corner. The Demi Raglan is one of a growing number of tutorials in the exclusive member library. Click the link below to find out more.

Shop the Demi Raglan Here

Join the Sewing Corner

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Tadah Patterns Turns 10!
My Favourite Tadah Patterns

If you haven’t seen, Tadah are having a massive 40% off site wide to celebrate their 10th birthday! Amazing!!
Tadah were actually the very first PDF patterns I ever used. I had previously only used paper patterns from the big 4 and while I was a competent sewer, I found them lacking in instructions and often had trouble finding my size from the pattern draws at the craft store. After my friend Laura (@eveningseamstress) started using Tadah to sew for her daughters and gushed to me about how easy they were I decided to give these PDF patterns a go. I have never looked back!!
My very first Tadah pattern was the Baby Tea Party in romper view and I had a very clear vision of how the fabrics would work and how it would look on Jemma who was then about 13 months old. They are honestly some of the best drafted patterns for kids (and adults!) and the instructions make it SO EASY to follow.
Tadah are still on high rotation in my garment making and I’ve now become quite good friends with Lauren who is such an incredible human with an absolutely beautiful soul. I just love how sewing brings together the most wonderful people ❤️
It’s hard to choose a favourite but I’ve listed a couple below that are well worth adding to your pattern stash if you don’t already have them. Happy shopping and happy 10th birthday Tadah!
*sale runs until midnight August 4th

Tea Party

Without a doubt my most made Tadah pattern. I have made so many of these in all the different views and styles, I reckon I could do a the Tea Party with my eyes closed now haha. It was hard to choose only a few of my makes to share, but trust me you need to add this one to cart ASAP.

Shop the Tea Party

Jaunty knit Dress

The jaunty was one of my first forays into knit garments and what prompted me to buy my own overlocker as well. I had been borrowing my mums and realised they weren’t as scary as I initially thought. I like the double skirt option and have done a few where I have added a tulle layer to great effect as well.

Shop the Jaunty

Street Jacket

I think this might have been one of the first patterns I helped test for Lauren. It is SUCH a cute style and works well with a variety of fabric styles. Im a fan of them in corduroy but it can work equally as well in a drill or even a cotton. I have some colourful leopard sitting there from The Telarie that is earmarked for a street jacket for Jemma 😍

Shop the Street Jacket

Everyday Overalls

I LOVE overalls on kids. They are so cute and a great way to layer with fun tops and prints underneath as well. I originally got the Vintie Overalls from Tadah and made a few for Jemma but when Lauren was testing the Everyday overalls I put my hand straight up to test for Ted. It is definitely a more advanced pattern than the Vinties, so if you want a simpler first pattern, try the Vinties but get the everyday overalls at the same time cause they are too cute to pass up.

Shop the Everyday Overalls

Troop Shirt

The Troop Shirt was the first pattern I made for Ted and I was so daunted by it. I was worried that if I had a by I wouldn’t have anything to make him, but I was so wrong. I also thought shirts were really hard, but they are actually really simple. As long as you go slow and follow the extremely easy instructions, your little one will have a smart looking shirt in no time.

Shop the Troop Shirt

Flexi Shorts & Seaside Romper, Dress & Top

The Flexis were another firm fave of mine when Jemma was younger. The flat front hack with ruched legs by Tanya from Sewvolution was my fave thing to do and paired with a Seaside playsuit, I made many an adorable Tadah set.
The Seaside I liked as it wasn’t as fitted as tea party romper, but still so so cute. Perfect for younger kids who get their shirts all untucked, the playsuit option meant it was all tucked in and looked great.

Shop the Seaside

Shop the Flexi Shorts

Month: August 2023

Setting Up Your Machine for Twin Needling Success

Tip 1: Use the correct twin/double needle type

Tip 2: Keep your top threads separate

Tip 3: Have a play with the tension and stitch length

BONUS TIP

Want more help with your twin needling?

Go Shopping with Buy One Get One Free

Gaia Knit Tank Top

Ivy Colour block Top

Betty Faux Wrap

Calypso Colour Block

Juno Jacket

Adele Boatneck Top

Where sweetness meets rainbow dreams

What next?

Stop wasting fabric and time on projects that don't fit right.

Now let’s take a look!

Sleeveless:

Set-In Sleeves

Dolman Sleeves

Raglan Sleeves

Flutter Sleeves

Step into Coziness

What next?

Want personalised advice on your next sewing project?

The Wrap Up

What next?

Stop wasting fabric and time on projects that don't fit right.

My Favourite Tadah Patterns

Tea Party

Jaunty knit Dress

Street Jacket

Everyday Overalls

Troop Shirt

Flexi Shorts & Seaside Romper, Dress & Top

The Ultimate Guide to Common Sewing Mistakes

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