Pattern Reviews

  • Pattern Review of The Lenox Top and Dress

    Pattern: Lenox
    Designer: Love Notions
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from The Telarie
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Bust: 45″; Waist 40″; Hips 47″
    Size made: XL graded to 2XL
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: I love a square neckline on a garment and I love the way this one is constructed.
    Cons: No pockets, but fairly easy to add. Also, make sure you read the instructions on how to construct the neckband and MAKE SURE you mark the notches on the neckband.

    The Wrap Up

    Anything with a square neckline I am super keen to try out as I think it really suits my shape. I was curious about this pattern as generally when you have a square neckline the garment needs to be fully lined to achieve the corners of the square across the front, however this one is done with bands. If I can avoid fully lining I generally do as it is additional fabric I don’t always want to have to use. I also really liked the princess style of the front seams, which is why you can achieve the neckband the way it is.

    Essentially the neck band is done with 2 neckbands pieces, laid over the top of eachother to create the neckline. It’s not just for the square neckline either, the Lenox also has a really cute sweetheart neckline version. I’m yet to try that one, but I think it looks pretty cute also.

    One downfall for me on this pattern is that it doesn’t have pockets on the dress version. However, they are pretty simple to add and you can take the pockets from something like the Sybil Skirt Collection and easily add them to this dress. In fact, you could really mash any of the skirts from the Sybil Skirt Collection if you wanted to change it up and make it your own. I also talk about how to add inseam pockets in my review of the Willow Wrap Dress.

    All in all I think this pattern is well worth having in your collection. Watch my YouTube review to get my construction tips on how to get your neckband looking beautiful and I think you will be very happy with this pattern.

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  • Pattern Review of the Smitten Jacket

    Pattern: Smitten Jacket
    Designer: Pattern Emporium
    Fabrics: Cotton Drill from Spotlight Stores
    Skill level: Experienced Beginner
    Size made: 18 FBA
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: Love this one to chuck over a dress or top to dress it up or keep you warm on cooler nights.
    Cons: None

    The Wrap Up

    When I saw Kate from Pattern Emporium ask for testers for this jacket, I put my hand up straight away, it’s SO cute! I had my eye on the ultra crop version and I was not disappointed with my final version.

    One of the things I liked about it is that Kate wasn’t marketing it as a straight Denim jacket, rather one that could be used with softer fabrics such as Linen, Linen Blends and Rayons, which just makes it so much more versatile.

    I also really love the options on this one. Having the front and back yoke as well as the paneled front gives it so many ways to customise for a prefect style fit just for you. I am a huge fan of the top stitching element (though I didn’t top stitch this one), as it gives you the opportunity to add a contrasting colour that can really make it pop.

    Pattern Emporium really do have great written instructions for their patterns making it so much easier for beginners especially to feel like they are being supported as they attempt new patterns. It has a size range of 4-30, and mashes with quite a few other Pattern Emporium patterns.

    I thoroughly enjoyed making this one and have plans for a denim and Corduroy version for winter. I highly recommend giving this one a go!

    Watch my Review with construction tips

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  • Pattern Review of the Tessa Twist

    Pattern: Tessa Twist Sports Bar
    Designer: Made for Mermaids
    Fabrics: Sports Performance from Clover & Co. Fabrics
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Bust: 45″; Waist 39.5″
    Size made: Orange
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: I love this fun tank/crop. The twist adds interest and if you make it from swim material, you can use it as a bikini top.
    Cons: The bottom band is a little fiddly, but if you sew slow and pin/clip lots, you should be fine.

    The Wrap Up

    I was a tester for this one and when I first saw the tested call come up, I jumped at the chance as I loved the twist in the front. 

    I ended up doing both the pretest and the full test. My first version I mucked up my cutting by not cutting a mirrored pair, but in the end I didn’t mind having the white on the other side as I thought it added contrast. There were a few tester photos that did a contrasting tank as well.

    I made a size Orange which I felt was a good fit for me. My breasts felt supported and like I wasn’t going to fall out, I didn’t have any side ‘boob’ and the back was comfortable. My only note would be that the recommended elastic length for the sports band version was too big for me. I ended up opening up the side and taking out about 4″ of elastic to get a nicer fit for my under bust. 

    My final version I also added power mesh in the inner layer which I think worked really well. There are instructions for adding foam cups if you wanted to also.

    The construction can a take a little to get your head around, but having the photos to check really help. I think as long as you go slow and check against the pictures regularly, it’s a fairly easy sew.

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  • Pattern Review of the Ivy Colourblock Tee

    Pattern: Ivy Colorblocked Tee
    Designer: Sinclair Patterns
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra Solids and Panels from Rubyjam Fabrics
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Bust: 45″; Waist 39.5″; Hips 47″
    Size made: 18
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: I love the yoke and color blocking on this one, it makes for such a flattering fit.
    Cons: None

    The Wrap Up

    This month in The Sewing Corner, I had the pleasure of sewing up the Ivy Colorblocked Tee from Sinclair Patterns, and I have to say, I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out!

    First of all, I have to comment on the pattern itself. Sinclair Patterns is known for their well-drafted and thorough patterns, and the Ivy Tee is no exception. The instructions are clear and easy to follow, plus the pattern includes a wide range of sizes which I always appreciate.

    As for the design of the Ivy Tee, I love the colorblocking! It’s such a fun and modern twist on a classic tee, and it allows you to play around with different fabric combinations. I went with a darker teal solid on top and utilised one of Rubyjam’s jamPODs (Panels On Demand) for the lower section, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

    You can have a lot of fun using different colour combos as well as integrating pattern prints to either the yoke or bottom colour block. If you like to matchy match, there is the kids version, the Ivyberry, that you can play around with too.

    As I mentioned above, this is the tutorial I filmed for The Sewing Corner this month, so if you need help sewing this pattern up come and join in the community of The Sewing Corner. Rubyjam is the sponsor this month so you not only get the tutorial, you get an exclusive discount only available to Sewing Corner members of 15% off their Panels on Demand. They have over 1000 to choose from now, make sure you check them out!

    If you’re not sure about the on going monthly subscription of The Sewing Corner, you can also purchase this course on it’s own, check out the link HERE to find out more. 

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  • Pattern Review of the Duet Trousers and how to add a control panel

    Pattern: Duet Trousers
    Designer: Love Notions
    Fabrics: Bengaline from Spotlight Stores
    Skill level: Confident Beginner
    Measurements: Waist 39.5″; Hips 47.5″
    Size made: 16 Full Belly Adjusted Pieces
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: The re release with the full belly adjusted pieces is such a welcome addition.
    Cons: Pants are a challenge. Always make a muslin/toile before cutting into your fashion fabric.

    The Wrap Up

    I’m not sure I’ve ever been so happy with a pair of pants straight off the bat. The toile/muslin I made was so well fitting, I knew that when I cut into my fashion fabric they would be a win.

    My biggest piece of advice for making these pants would be to make sure you read the fitting advice included in the pattern. According to my measurements, I should have made a size 20, but I know I would have had to make so many adjustments and likely would have ended up really frustrated. After reading all the advice on fitting however, I knew that I needed to use the Full Belly Adjusted pieces and was able to use the size 16, and got such a great fit.

    The other bonus about the duet trousers is that they come with a pants fitting workbook that is great for helping to work out what any creases in your pants may mean. 

    As well as the workbook, Love Notions have released a Duet trouser course with this re-release, meaning its easier than ever to get help in getting your perfect fitting trousers.

    This will certainly not be my last pair I make, it is so nice to have a pair of slacks that not only look good, they feel good to wear as well.

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  • Updated Pattern Review of the Dutchie Jacket

    Pattern: Kids Dutchie Jacket
    Designer: Ellie & Mac
    Fabrics: Black French Terry from Rubyjam Fabrics and Buffalo Plaid Flannel from Spotlight
    Skill level: Intermediate
    Measurements: Chest: 21″; Waist 20.5″; Hips 21″
    Size made: 3
    Adjustments: Hacked their instructions on the welt pocket.
    Pros:Love this jacket cause you can mix woven in the bodice with knit for the sleeves.
    Cons: I found the instructions a little confusing. Definitely read each step before progressing. 

    The Wrap Up

    I’ve actually made this jacket for Jemma before (which you can read here) and while I loved it, I found the instructions a little heavy to follow. To be honest, some of it is that because I am such a competent sewist I tend to assume what the next step will be and go ahead with what I logically think will work, but sometimes patterns need to be done in a certain way for all the elements to work, so it doesn’t always work in my favour to jump the gun!

    As I mentioned in my last review, I wasn’t a huge fan of the visible stitching lines on the front welt pocket, so this time I was determined to alter them out. I cut out all the pieces and ended up having a think about it overnight and came up with a pretty good solution I think.

    I filmed it all to show how I did, you can see it all in the YouTube video below. 

    It is definitely a great pattern all in all, I just recommend you take your time while sewing it and you will get great results.

    How to eliminate the visible stitching lines on the welt pocket, plus short review.

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  • Pattern Review of the Adult Discoverer Tee

    Pattern: Adult Discoverer Tee
    Designer: Ellie & Mac
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Rubyjam Fabrics
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Bust: 45″; Waist 40″; Hips 46″
    Size made: XXL
    Adjustments: None
    Pros: Love the colour blocking on this and how it allows you to mix and match coordinating fabrics.
    Cons: None

    The Wrap Up

    I had a lot of fun sewing this one up.

    My Brother in Law’s partner has a bit of a thing for avocado’s so as soon as I saw this fabric I knew that I wanted to make it into something for her. 

    The discoverer tee seemed perfect as I was able to colour block with a solid to break up the ‘strong’ hero print. It’s also quite a flattering fit for larger busted women (as my sis in law is) as the colour blocking hits above the bust.

    If you like a simple, easy sew with colour blocked options, this is a great pattern. I have also written a tutorial on how to add knit piping across the colour blocked section which I’ll link here. I did it for a the kids version but it’s the same principle for the adult version.

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  • Pattern Review of the Margot Peplum

    Pattern: Margot Peplum
    Designer: Love Notions
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Sew Unique Fabrics
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Chest: 44″; Waist 40″; Hips 47″
    Size made: XL/2XL
    Adjustments: Grading and shortening bodice to Empire waistline
    Pros: I love princess seams on my shape and the option of skirts is a bonus. Also has full bust adjusted pieces already.
    Cons: Not a fan of it sitting on my natural waist but I shortened to Empire waist. See my YouTube review for instructions.

    The Wrap Up

    I hadn’t made this one before but it’s been on my list to try for a while. 

    I had originally planned to try the pleated skirt but I didn’t have enough fabric so I ended up going for the swing style. I love the result but think I will try the pleated next time, some of the tester photos were so pretty.

    I also shortened the bodice to be more Empire style as I find that suits my shape much better. I am so happy with the final look now and absolutely LOVE how this sits on my body now.

    I made mine from a cotton lycra but I think this would look really nice in a scuba or ponte as well so I would be keen to try that next time as well.

    Love Notions is one of my fave for pre done full bust adjusted pieces as well. It makes it so much easier for bigger busted women to be able to just use the already adjusted pieces. 

    Excited to be wearing this one around!

    PS. use code sewandtellau10 for an EXTRA 10% off at the checkout.

    Video Review

    Watch my detailed review of the Margot Peplum on YouTube. Includes bonus tutorial on how to shorten a Natural Waistline to an Empire Waistline.

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  • Pattern Review of the Endless Summer Tee

    Pattern: Endless Summer Tee
    Designer: Pattern Emporium
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Wattle Hill Fabrics
    Skill level: Beginner
    Measurements: Chest: 44″; Waist 40″; Hips 47″
    Size made: 20/22
    Adjustments: Grading and I ended up taking it in under the arms another 1″ on both sides.
    Pros: I love the neckline on this and feminine flutters.
    Cons: The sizing hasn’t been updated on this pattern yet so its only to a 24 (US20). 

    The Wrap Up

    I am a big fan of scoop neck patterns and this one was no exception. However, there are also 4 other necklines to choose from which is something I love when patterns include different necklines. I also instantly knew I wanted to put the flutters on. I love how feminine they are and just add an extra detail that draws the eye up, which for me I like cause it takes away from my tummy! haha.

    I used a super soft Cotton Elastane from Wattle Hill Fabrics in an olive with small black dots, which paired perfectly with the Olive Faux Denim Cotton Elastane I used for my Sonia Estep Iris shorts. I have previously written about the Iris Shorts which I will link here. The fabric was a dream to sew with and I love wearing it as its so soft and light on my skin.

    You can leave the flutters unhemmed as its a knit so won’t fray, but I chose to do a rolled hem on mine. I used the rolled hem feature on my Baby Lock Acclaim Overlocker/Serger and it did the most BEAUTIFUL rolled hem I think I’ve ever seen. I see lots more rolled hems in my future. Not to mention more Endless Summer Tee’s!

    Definitely a quick and easy one to sew up and recommend giving it a go.

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  • Pattern Review of the Vivace Dolman

    Pattern: Vivace Dolman
    Designer: Love Notions
    Fabrics: Cotton Lycra from Wattle Hill Fabrics
    Skill level: Confident Beginner
    Size made: XL/2XL
    Adjustments: Just the grading
    Pros: This is a very flattering top and can be made from both Knits and Wovens.
    Cons: I had to unpick the pleat about 4 times cause I didn’t read the pattern right. I also didn’t get the corners right on the collar.

    The Wrap up

    First time making this one and I love the way it fits and flatters the body.

    I chose to make the tunic length but probably could have done the shirt version quite comfortably as well. I feel like it flatters my body really well and goes well with leggings and I think it would look equally as good with jeans.

    I didn’t read the instructions properly at the start so I had to unpick the pleat 4 times, doh. I also had some troubles getting the collar to sit properly with the corner, but I took it slow and eventually got it looking nice. My advice is to take it slow and baste it in first! Don’t forget to interface the collar as well, I think this is a big reason it sits nicely.

    I definitely recommend making this one, I’ve already had requests from my family to make some for them.

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